It's simple to swipe on mascara and a touch of color, but sometimes a little more drama is necessary. Sure, it takes effort to add some serious oomph, but the end results are well worth it when you want to make a statement. Makeup guru Vincent Longo shares step-by-step tips on how to create two different yet equally gorgeous eye looks. One is all about using contrasting shadow shades for a sultry effect, while false lashes and liner take center stage in the other. Read on to get detailed instructions on how to make your eyes look stunning and dramatic.
Start by lining the upper lash line (try L'Oreal Micro Liner Ultra Fine Lining Pencil) from the inner to the outer corners of the eyes. Keep the line thin at the inner edge and make the line thicker as you go out, extending it slightly up and out. Longo suggests using any deep shade; you can go for obvious choices like black or brown, but more unexpected colors like charcoal or plum work well, too.
Next, use a stiff eye shadow brush (like Vincent Longo Small Flat Eyeshadow Brush) to smudge the line a little bit, maintaining the shape of the line (thin at the inner corners and thicker at the outer corners). "You want to smudge the line up into the crease so it forms a sideways V shape," says Longo. "This opens up the outer corner and gives a very dramatic look." The idea is to blend the color upward so it gradually gets slightly lighter toward the crease.
Find a dark shadow — try Cover Girl Eye Enhancers 1 Kit Shadows — that matches your liner, or experiment with a complementary shade (Longo likes a combo of black or brown liner with plum shadow, or charcoal liner with navy shadow). Use a brush to dab it onto the outer corner, close to the lash line, right on top of the V shape you created with the liner. Longo says this builds up the depth of the color and helps to set the pencil, giving it extra staying power.
Choose a highlighting eye-shadow color — like beige, champagne, rosy pink, or gold — with either a matte finish or a little shimmer (Stila Eye Shadow Pans come in a variety of options). Using a fluffy brush, place the color on the inner corner of the lid and sweep it across to the outer corner. Next, place a dab directly under the arch of the brow to add just a little spotlight. "You can even use a white or skin-colored pencil on the inner rim of the lower lashes to really open up the eyes and make them look bigger," suggests Longo.
Gently blend the edges of the highlighter and dark shadow, but be sure not to go overboard, to maintain the contrast in colors. Use the same dark liner and shadow along the lower lash line, placing more color at the outer corner. Smudge that line into the V shape on the outer corner of the upper lid.
Finally, curl your top lashes with an eyelash curler and apply a volume-enhancing mascara (such as Bare Escentuals Buxom Lash) to both the upper and lower lashes. Concentrate the color at the roots, then use a very fine-toothed metal lash comb to get rid of clumps (that way you can apply several coats
Start by curling bare lashes with an eyelash curler, making sure you get every lash from the inner to the outer corners. Longo uses the petite curler from his collection. To use a mini eyelash curler, follow these simple steps:
1. Starting at the outer corner of the eye, gather a small section of lashes and position the curler as close to the roots as possible.
2. Apply gentle pressure as a test — this will prevent you from accidentally pinching the delicate skin on your lash line.
3. Once you've positioned the curler correctly, apply pressure and hold the curler in place for 15 seconds, then release.
Continue this technique as you move along the lash line toward the inner corner of the eye.
Using a sharp eye pencil, like Maybelline New York Unstoppable Eyeliner, draw a line along the upper lid, as close to the lash line as possible. You can use any color you like, including black, brown, burgundy, or green, depending on whether you want a classic look or something a bit more unexpected, Longo says. A thicker line will obviously add more drama, while a thinner line will look a bit cleaner and more subdued.
Extend the liner along the upper lash line past the outer corner. If you choose a thicker line, you can draw a little upward sweep, or keep it straighter if you prefer a thinner line. Along the lower lash line, use the pencil only on the outer third outward, and blend it into the line on the upper lid. Blend the edges of the line a little bit, Longo says, then take a matching eye shadow color, smudge it over the pencil, and blend to set the color.
A full-strip lash set (such as Shu Uemura Smoky Layers False Eyelashes) will add the most impact. Longo advises removing all traces of the glue that adheres the lashes to the packaging and to buy lash glue instead. Place a thin layer of the glue along the base of the lash strip. Let it dry for a few seconds, then use tweezers or your fingers to place the strip onto the center of the eye. Next, attach the strip to the outer corner and then onto the inner corner, making sure the strip fits snugly at the root of your lashes. For a cat's-eye effect, choose falsies that attach only to the outer corners of the eyes (Laura Mercier Corner Faux Lashes are the perfect shape and size).
Make sure everything blends together, using your pointer finger and thumb to pinch your natural lashes into the fakes. Let the glue dry for about five minutes (take this time to groom and fill in your brows — straggly arches don't fit with this defined look), then apply mascara, such as Clinique High Impact Curling Mascara. Using a black liner to match your mascara, draw a thin line (try Vincent Longo Liquid Liner) right onto the lash strip to cover up any traces of glue.
Admittedly, perfecting a contrasting shadow effect or applying falsies may not be simple, but you don't need to be a pro to pull it off. Just keep practicing — before you shower is the perfect time, since you can wash off any mistakes — and you'll get it soon enough. Next, throw a party so you can show off your fancy makeup handiwork!
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